Twenty years ago, I travelled up the coast from Punta del Este, the charming Uruguayan beach resort that became popular as a high-end summer destination in the 1940s. I was stunned by wild, breathtaking landscape, which was eerily but beautifully deserted, as if I'd landed on Planet of the Apes. Now, those beaches are less deserted, as those escaping the Ibiza-like frenesí of "Punta" prefer the more exclusive retreats northwards, such as Rincón del Indio, La Barra and right up to El Faro de San Ignacio, which have now themselves become paparazzi hotspots, their photos filling Hello magazine every summer. The rustic wilderness that was once the Atlantic coast of this tiny country nestled between the gigantic geographical powerhouses that are Argentina and Brazil, is now awash with multi-million-dollar mansions.

This year, just before the holiday season started, I went back and stayed in the old port of Punta del Este, at the very tip the original resort, with its harbour and waterfront. The 1960s holiday homes in the neighbourhood around a lighthouse now seem very modest compared to the new mega mansions up the coast or the high-rise luxury towers along Playa Mansa. Clearly not posh enough for new wealth, and not cool enough for the latest nightspots, I found myself delighting in the treasures of the old town, harbouring the charm that made Punta the attraction it is today. Here are a few of the things I enjoyed.

1. Walking around the port watching the fishermen come in

Anytime of the year one of the nicest things to do is stroll around the harbour (some run) watching the fishing boats come in. All kinds of funky home-made boats appear, having somehow survived the Atlantic ocean, their crew unloading and slapping the fresh catch straight onto the market stalls. The sea lions come right up and get fed too. Then walking on the new piers checking out the yachts, some of them beautifully maintained, many with flags of different countries. The puerto and historic Yacht club is also a host to the Clipper Race that comes in every two years. There one can have a tour around the boats, meet the sailors and listen to their stories. The ‘seeing off’ is also a big lively event.

2. Cafe Rebelión and El Cafe Frances

One of the many cafes with a view onto the puerto, this is a great place to chill on the terrace with the best cappuccino and selection of healthy cakes and great bread or an aperitif. The French cafe run by a French/Uruguayan couple is up the road from the Mansa Beach, has super cakes, real French croissants etc. Popular mainly for breakfast, brunches and merienda (tea).

3. Strolling around the old part of the peninsula 

On the hill that stretches above the port and around the lighthouse is the historic part of the Peninsula. There no high rises and very few new builds, mainly houses originally built as summer houses, which have none of the opulence of today's mansions and remind one of a bygone era. There is a little park in front of the lighthouse which is a super place to chill . Local people say that at one of the crossroads you can see the 'four oceans' and if you find the exact line to stand on, its good luck. One has a sense of time standing still in this historic area, some of the buildings are inhabited or maybe once restored for a short time like the old cinema with a small stage which a few years was turned into an ‘art bar.' 

4. Evenings on the Malecón

In the evenings, local residents, young and old, pour down onto the promenade, some with stereos others, just to bask in the beautiful evening and gaze over the beautiful view of Isla Gorriti on the horizon. All are invariably accompanied with flasks of hot water under one arm and holding the leather maté cup in the other hand, which they pass amongst each other and chat away. Instead of a beach, there is a lawn between the promenade and the sea, which stretches about a mile so it never feels crowded. The atmosphere is very chilled and the view spectacular.

5. Pueblo Narakan

A live music venue (also off-season), Pueblo Narakan hosts many local artists as well as visiting musicians. In previous years, most venues closed in winter, but with more people living in Punta full time and a more international population, live music happens all year round now and most days of the week. Uruguay has a fantastic music tradition, with its very own black music genre Candombe, and world class artists such as Jorge Drexler who recently came back to do a free concert in Punta. We really enjoyed a young local singer-songwriter called Eva Govea, who had a beautiful voice and sung in both English and Spanish.

6. Watching the surfers on Brava beach 

Most exciting in cold and windy winter, on the Brava side of the punta, watching the surfers go out all year round, literally whatever the weather, is quite something. They go at the crack of dawn and seem to spend hours in the water. One can watch them from the road or down on the playa de los Ingleses. The walk to the dedos (the giant fingers sticking out of the sand, which has becaome Punta's landmark where everyone takes photos) is a lovely stroll.

7. Sealion watching in the harbour

Right down on the harbour where they sell the fresh fish every day, you can often spot sealions, some of them gigantic, basking in the sun. 

8. Moby Dick Bar and Grill.

Another live music venue, this is a place where you have the feeling you are breathing in the best fresh air possible, and it feels like it’s a place ‘on the edge of the earth. Many Europeans get quite overwhelmed by the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean

9. Shark & Marea Restaurants in La Mansa

Though there are many restaurants in Punta del Este, but this one, which and this one at the end of the malecon,and at the beginning of Manso beach, is one we really enjoyed and went back to, for both the food and cocktails which were really good, but mostly for the spectacular view over the Isla Goritti at sunset. La Marea Parada 8 de la Mansa, which is the same beautiful setting and also has fabulous food.

Whilst there are not really any hotels in el Puerto, we stayed in and can highly recommend a modest but extremely well positioned and comfortable Airbnb, run by Celia. Details here