It is almost 5pm when the text message of my Couchsurfing host Rocío arrives, saying that she can't get out of bed from her siesta and she won't be able to accompany me to visit of the archeological site Pucará. I am in the mountain village Tilcara, in the province of Jujuy and see my time running out, knowing that they close at 6pm. Being a traveler with a limited amount of time I want to make the most out of each day. It dawns on me that Pucará would be too stressful, so I ask Rocío for alternatives. "Why don't you do the llama experience?!" she asks. "You get to caress them, take them for a walk, brush their fur and make like 725 selfies. It's fun!".

Right! Immediately I book my spot at Caravana de Llamas and take a taxi to the location, just outside up the hill from Tilcara. While we get our introduction talk with the guide one lama comes close to a guy and approches their snout super close to his nose, as if it was about to kiss him. It stays there for a good while, looking absolutely CUTE.

"Right" explains the guide, "this is how they greet someone they don't know. Like the lama - handshake, saying hi there, this is me, this is my smell, now let me get acquainted to yours!". Once this approach has happened we are good to go: walk, cuddle and explore the mountains on our 1 hour caravan tour! Important side note: lamas are not supposed to carry humans, they are only employed for luggage.

Llamas and the delicate deer-like vicuñas are important fauna representatives of the north of the Argentina - llamas appear on all the artesanal markets as key fob, on purses etc. and the vicuna often forms part of tales as the trusted companion of "pachamama" (mother earth).

Traveling through the provinces Jujuy and Salta is absolutely gorgeous. I am happy to escape the noise and intensity of Buenos Aires. Being in the mountains calms me down and inspires me. I like the process of hiking because no one can run up a mountain. It requests perserverence and determination. It brings me in deeper contact with myself - respecting my walking rhythm, the ideal size of each step I take. And most important: it relaxes enough to just enjoy the journey. 

Not being obsessed with reaching the top, every now and then I make a break and celebrate how far I already got and how beautiful everything around me is. One of the gifts of traveling and being in nature for me is reconnecting with our capacity to marvel at what surrounds us. My favourite spot on my trip is the two hours hike to the mirador de condor in Iruya, a tiny mountain village close to Bolivia. I even get to see one condor from very far.

The picturesque yellow church with the blue roof is made for a postcard. I sleep in the simple but professional hostel Milmahuasi B&B with the softest bedsheets I have ever experienced in my life. (They got them from the market in Salta and they are made in India, I asked!!). Milahuasi has a roof terrasse with a canopy swing mountain view - a perfect spot for my morning Yoga ritual. The staff is pacient and explains me all the different hikes I can do around the village. Do not make the mistake to do Iruya in one day! Sleep over for at least a night and have some stewed lama meat and as dessert quesillo & dulce - goat cheese, nuts and dulce de cayote, a sort of sweet pumpkin.

Don't forget to buy some coca leaves or candies when you are about to head off to areas that are above 2500 height. They can help you with altitude sickness - air pressure gets lower, it can be harder to breathe and possible symptoms are headache, fatigue, nausea and vomiting. My body deals quite well with the altitude, at times I need to slow down and regulate my breath.

The best way of getting around in Argentina are the so called micros - long distance buses with super comfortable seats. They are really affordable and cosy to sleep in. If you choose the category cama or cama ejecutiva, you can incline them almost 180 degrees to the back. The websites plataforma 10 or Central de Pasajes allows you to search for trips to and from any location in Argentina.

From Iruya I travel to Humahuaca, having in mind the mountain of 14 colours. There is a similar cerro close to Purmamarca with seven colours and I have been told: go directly to Humahuaca, it is much more impressive. (The same goes, by the way, for the salt deserts: you have the Salinas Grandes in Argentina, but if you go to salares in Bolivia you can miss out on the Argentinian version).

As soon as I get off the micro" some assertive guides are already standing around with pictures selling their tours. Basically they take off as soon as the car is full (4 persons), but the cost per car can be split between less people if you are in a hurry. It is recommended to go to the Serranía de Hornocal after 4pm when the sun shines right onto the sight (instead of the morning when you have backlight). In my case the weather is a bit cloudy, unfortunately. (It is always important to take the weather into account in all your plans - Iruya for example is not accessible in case of heavy rainfalls, you can't get either in or out.)

During the 45 min car ride we get to see some vicuñas. As I arrive I am astonished with the play of shapes and colours. Through tectonic plate dislocation the different earth layers have been moved into a jag form, shark teeth kind of, each layer in a different shade of brown, red and yellow. It is like a huge landscape artwork!

For sure once you have come across the pictures where people on a wide white plain are running away from a dinosaur! Welcome to Salinas Grandes - a salt desert in the province of Salta on an altitude of 3450 meters. On a surface of 820 square kilometers you can walk around endlessly on a salt platform which has dried out in Holocene. The contrast between the white ground and blue sky is most impressive after a rain when the colour has been freshened up. Wearing sunglasses is an absolute must, also sun protection. Included in the entrance fee is a mini-photoshoot with the guards. They will ask you for your phone and tell you exactly where to stand and what to do, making fun pictures with different props, such as monsters or mate tea. The possibilities are endless!

Being a Tango dancer I could not avoid doing a tango pose.. On the way out you can buy lots of - you guessed it -SALT!! In combination with lemon, garlic, chilli, parsley or whatever inspires you most! And another shopping tip: it is very likely that you access the salt desert through Purmamarca, there you find a lovely designer store called Llama negra where you can chose from different ponchos in all sizes and colours!

So, if you like mountains, have no physical problems with great height and you are looking for a vacation that invites you to slow down then Argentina's north is a great option! You will be blessed with a stunning diversity of landscapes in all colours and shapes, humble and friendly people along the way and artwork at local markets to admire. Be aware that January and Febuary are month of great heat (but dry heat what makes it a bit more bearable) and that during carneval (end of Febuary/beginning of March) many places are booked out.

About the author:
Valerie Kattenfeld is a globe trotter and has moved to Argentina in 2019. She lives in Buenos Aires and works there as BA Tango Guide - teaching classes and creating authentic Tango experiences for travellers, integrating them into the local community.
www.valeriekattenfeld.com and https://www.instagram.com/batangoguide