JIMMY BURNS, award-winning journalist and author:
I went on Thursday lunchtime and the place was heaving, tables so close together and conversation so loud as to make me feel a teeny-bit stressful. I came hoping to discuss some work and non-work stuff with a friend and colleague and realised how unsuitable the venue was not just for work but for a more leisurely encounter. We had to wait to be accommodated (no reservations taken). Once seated, we were served efficiently enough although the staff seemed somewhat disconnected from the food, moving as quickly as they could between tables and the open kitchen without allowing much time to comment on what they had in hand. Once we had got though our tapas, one felt pressure to move on, with people still waiting at the door.
I have an in-built reaction to feeling I am on a conveyor belt when savouring the delights of Spanish food. Which is a pity as Brindisa’s various establishments have made an important contribution to educating Londoners about quality Spanish food products and cuisine, and has some delicious items on offer even in this far-from-hassle free bar.
I was on a non-booze day- but Brindisa has a decent selection of not-too expensive wines and I know, from experience, that their dry fino sherry is a perfect accompaniment to the great big juicy green olives I started off with. I liked their ham croquetas, nicely crisp on the outside and then on the inside filled with creamy béchamel letting through the intensely savoury taste of the Spanish jamon. Also delicious was the goat’s cheese with honey. I was less impressed by the lamb chops (overcooked), and black rice (soggy and lacking taste). I came away thinking, that for all its human chatter, the place is strangely soulless, and could be friendlier-but friends I know clearly find it worthwhile. Maybe I should have picked a quieter day (earlier in the week), drank some wine, and felt less in a hurry.
ABBEY AND STEPHEN WRIGHT, former British Ambassador to Madrid
Brindisa’s plump olives (definitely the best in our competition) are flavoured with orange and oregano, together with lovely salted almonds and a Fino Lustau Reserva and a “cabaret” at the bar of a new black footed ham being prepared for cutting, kept us busy until a table came free in this very popular establishment.
With an interesting lightly oaked white Rioha Allenda we enjoyed crispy delicious Catalan flatbread with tomato to accompany fish tapas of Gambas Al Ajillo, soft and sweet with just the right amount of chilli and garlic, and perfect Galician Octopus with potatoes and smoked paprika.
A glass of Priorat accompanied a lovely lamb tapa, small cutlets with a mint salad, and pork fillet with a piquillo pepper. The original pork arrived underdone for our taste, we like our lamb and beef pink, but pork must be cooked, but this was swiftly remedied.
We were offered a very interesting deep fried Monte Enebro goats cheese with an orange blossom honey dressing and delightful beetroot chips as garnish which was yummy with a glass of crisp dry Albarino which balanced it perfectly. Finally we stuck our spoons into a perfect chocolate mousse with secret berries as the bottom of the glass.
A very delicious lunch, beautifully orchestrated by the Hungarian manager Tamas. We struck up conversation with some regulars at the next table who loved their lunch too.
They said sometimes they had to wait longer than they would wish, but al fin, it was worth it."
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