Any self-respecting London foodie will tell you that Peruvian cuisine is big news. In the last few years Andean eateries have been sprouting all over the capital, and their culinary heft was proven in September of last year when Fitzrovia’s Lima became the first Peruvian restaurant to win a Michelin star barely a year after opening.
Whilst many of the Peruvian eateries have chosen a put a nouveau twist on classic Peruvian fare, giving it a distinctively modern, London feel (none more than Sushisamba, sitting atop the Heron Tower) Islington’s Tierra Peru offers refreshingly traditional dishes. Starting life as a stall in Camden, Tierra Peru has transported this relaxed and friendly vibe to its Islington venue by offering both an a-la-carte menu and a buffet service.
Peru's varied terrain makes for a surprisingly broad cuisine, and Tierra Peru successfully combines them all: Andean quinoa and papa huancaina from the mountains, tamales (corn mash steamed in banana leaves) from the jungle, and from the coast perhaps Peru's most famous culinary export, ceviche. For the uninitiated, that’s raw fish cured in lemon or lime juice, spiced with aji (Peruvian chili pepper) and garnished with red onion. Tierra Peru's ceviche offerings are spot on: fresh, sharp and succulent, with the olive cream-garnished version a standout. What’s more, the ceviche and some of the other popular dishes come in both starter and main size, perfect for first-timers or those who just want it all.
For those reluctant to gorge on raw fish there are plenty of other well-chosen recipes all with fresh Peruvian ingredients and attractively presented. The aji de gallina (chicken in a lightly spiced, creamy walnut sauce) and the seco de cordero con frejoles (coriander-and-stout-marinated lamb with white beans) are especially warming and satisfying for a crisp London day. Tierra Peru’s attention to detail and thoughtful selection of ingredients, such as cassava and lucuma, should satisfy more seasoned diners. Special mention should go to the variety of vegetarian alternatives: a sigh of relief for vegetarians, especially those who've tried to eat veggie in Latin America!
Tierra Peru offers soya meat versions of their classic dishes that are flavoursome, textured and well-adapted, rather than thrown in as an afterthought.
The proof of any self-respecting Peruvian establishment is in the Pisco – the yellowish grape brandy that is Peru’s national drink. And Tierra Peru’s frothy Pisco Sours don't disappoint, bringing just the right balance of sweetness and sharpness. Plus there’s Cusquena beer, chicha morada and luminescent Inca cola to transport you to the mountains of Cusco or the limeño coast.
Panpipe music and photos of Quechua women in bright woven textiles give a nod to origin without being too kitsch, although the owners could perhaps have pushed the boat out a little more with the décor to make the place more inviting. That said, the thoughtful menu selection and an obvious passion for bringing the best of Peru to London mean that Peruvophiles and novices alike should find something to love here.
Tierra Peru 164 Essex Rd, London N1 8LY
For reservations phone: 020 7354 5586
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