When it rains it pours, and now Fitzrovia boasts three Peruvian restaurants within a hundred metres. But with the variety of dishes and flavours that this fantastic multi-faceted cuisine offers, there can never be too many. Perching on a lovely wide-windowed corner, Pisqu is firmly rooted in classic Peruvian fine-dining rather than in the fusion of its opposite number (literally), Lima.
The owners’ passion is evident; Yuko, the boss, a Japanese foodie (and apparently fantastic cook herself) fell in love with Peruvian cuisine no doubt thanks to her Peruvian husband, Coco. The couple cleverly solicited the skills of William Ortiz, one of London’s most sought-after Peruvian chefs.
You can almost taste Ortiz’s experience in what is probably the best octopus starter I’ve had: Pulpo grilled with dried chilli, sitting on a bed of corn. My ten year-old son loved the Andean Heritage Salad of quinoa, sweet potato, Inca corn, avocado, cheese; “the flavours came together beautifully” (I think he got that phrase from Masterchef)
The test of any Peruvian restaurant should be the ceviche; increasingly popular on London menus but rarely inspiring. The key is in the ‘tiger’s milk’ juice, and here is where Ortiz’ knowledge provides the edge, delivering a soft and almost creamy texture, when others can be harsh and over-limey. The Cassava Croquetas with black and white quinoa, cheese, achiote oil, were also delicious.
For mains, my son chose classic lomo saltado - beef strips, flame sautéed, red onions, rice and chunky chips – which he described as steak and chips, but much, much batter. We also had a delicious Pato al Aji , grilled duck breast, aji mirasol, purple corn rice and an outstandingly crispy and succulent Chicharrón (pork belly), with sweet potato and rocoto pepper sauce.
To finish; a chocolate mousse that burst open with a passion fruit sauce - the sweet and sourn contrasting perfectly – and an array of wonderful ice creams made of purple corn, maca, and lúcuma.
Despite being fairly up-market, Pisqu was refreshingly child friendly; chef Ortiz invited the kids into the kitchen, where they watched him prepare sublime morsels (with lightening speed, by all accounts) - a unique experience for them. You can’t get much better than this for authentic Peruvian; now you have London’s two best Peruvian restaurants, distinct in their approach, side by side.
23 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, London W1T 1HZ
